Only a fashion label as eclectic and copacetic, oddly visionary and just plain odd as threeASFOUR (who are Gabi, Angela and Adi) would be able to bring to fruition OPHIUCHUS—the thirteenth zodiac—for their Fall 2013 capsule collection. The trio explain it in somewhat metaphysical terms: “We’re spiritual, yes.…but it’s not about religion. It’s about your inner soul…We welcome the thirteenth sign in a Puja offering ceremony.”
Um, ok. Their show flier reflects a mash of astrological fodder rendered in circular text with each of the 13 looks corresponding to a different star sign. threeASFOUR’s fashion always involves a deep dive into the realm of abstractions and art, questioning what fashion is all about, and wants to make you forget the name of the thing you’re looking at so that it might expand in your mind into something that triggers unexpected infinities and cosmic conjectures.
The NYC-based design collective make theatrical presentations and avant-garde clothing that interrupts cognition, conjures diaphanous dreamscapes and triggers endless free association. Presented at The Hole gallery on Ash Wednesday, there were numerous spiritual references on display. With the room smelling like a church or a Buddhist temple, the models walked out in a slow-motion procession—Sagittarius, Capricorn, Aquarius, and so on—participating in a kind of ecclesiastical ritual while
donning brilliantly crafted garments and footwear.
The experimental looks showcased were artisanal coats and outerwear, dresses, trousers and custom made wedges. Each piece incorporated the designers’ signature curved seams in one way or another with detailed embroidering, leather appliques, miniscule mirrors or other alien ornaments. A lavender dress adorned with seashells was one highlight as was the jacquard coat and reptile blazer. The most noteworthy piece was the dove gray skinny trouser cut from corduroy with gorgeous curvilinear seams.
With threeASFOUR you can forget about commercial qualities. This was all about beautiful healing, enlightenment and paying homage to the serpent bearer OPHIUCHUS. Bravo!