For Chanel’s Spring Couture, Karl Lagerfeld delved into the dark and light duality of German romanticism (think Goethe, Schiller) for inspiration. The models looked like ethereal avian creatures – even down to their makeup – but beneath their serene exterior lurked an unmissable darkness. Or rather, an ‘elegant melancholia’, as Lagerfeld put it. The feathers on their heads grew ever more invasive and wild, while the clothes themselves slowly transformed from lavish evening concepts to frocks that looked beautifully abandoned. Lagerfeld utilized his usual staple of luxury tweed and lace fabrics and painstaking techniques – especially heavy on the hand-quilting front this time – to ultimately create a sombre portrait of conflicted femininity. The two brides (with child, no less) that closed the show may have provided the biggest spectacle, but it was everything going on between the lines that gave this show a particularly memorable meaning.