For Fall ‘13, the sunglasses-sporting, ponytail-flaunting Karl Lagerfeld continued his drive to drench the world in all things Chanel. The presentation (shown in the Grand Palais, of course) was framed around a gargantuan globe rotating at a tranquil tempo and strategically marked with intertwined ‘C’s indicating the precise coordinates of Chanel locations around the world. With a well-established global footprint and a brand plan that involves colonizing emerging markets from Beijing to Baku, the Kaiser was alluding to Chanel’s expansion ambitions and implied there’s way more to come.
The rollicking range—shown to Daft Punk’s ‘Around The World’, how could it not be?—was an incontrovertible statement about the lux house’s hegemonic posturing. Robust, sophisticated and dripping with luxury, the aesthetic subsumed Karl’s usual sass and glam flourishes. There were must-have accessories (bags and chained-clutches) cut from soft leathery lambskins coupled with sparkling tweed and knit jackets; amazing embossed appliques and elaborate embroidery were worked into the fabrics with lean but mean silhouettes and playful ensembles (we’re going gaga for that monochrome floral thing Stef Van Der Laan wore!).
The outfits—emphasizing texture and tactile sensibilities—were certainly sexy in their contour-enhancing shapes, their moody, delicious colors expressed in stark black and white, electric pink, bangin’ blue and orange made for a feeling of whimsical and wayward fun. Kaiser Karl has always exalted womanliness and in this collection he infused dresses, blousons and outerwear with blooming red and white flowers that gave it a feminine yet powerful ornate sense.
Beneath all the dazzle and bling, the Kaiser gives us depth and, on a rare occasion, a dollop of humor. (Cheekily, he gave a courteous nod to Anna Wintour’s invincible bob—something virtually every press outlet has gushed about).
The CONTRA Network is a collection of cultural sites and online editorials encompassing fashion, music and art. We are creatives in conversation with other creatives transforming the way we experience the modern world through design, sound and disruption.